
Model | CD Mechanism |
Wadia WT3200 | CDM-1 |
Wadia WT2000S | VRDS CMK-2 – KSS-151A |
Wadia WT2000 | VRDS CMK-3 – KSS-151A |
Wadia 6 | VRDS CMK-4 – KSS-151A |
Wadia 7 | VRDS CMK-2 – KSS-151A |
Wadia 8 | VRDS CMK-4 – KSS-151A |
Wadia 16 | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A |
Wadia 20 | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A |
Wadia 21 | VRDS CMK-4 – KSS-240A |
Wadia 22 | Pioneer Stable Platter PEA1030 |
Wadia 23 | Pioneer Stable Platter PEA1030 |
Wadia 301 | Pioneer Stable Platter PEA1343 |
Wadia 302 | Philips VAM1250 |
Wadia 830 | Pioneer Stable Platter PEA1343 |
Wadia 831 | Pioneer Stable Platter |
Wadia 270 | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A |
Wadia 850 | VRDS CMK-4-a – KSS-240A |
Wadia 860 | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A |
Wadia 861 | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A |
Wadia 861SE | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A (with Special Steel Bridge and CD Clamp) |
Wadia S7i | StreamUnlimited |
Wadia 381i | StreamUnlimited |
Wadia 581 | Sanyo SF-HD65 |
Wadia 781i | StreamUnlimited |
Source: for the most part the excellent Vasiltech CD-Player-DAC-Transport overview.
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Hello,
Could you tell me few words regarding Pioneer Stable Platter PEA1030/1343 CD mechanism used by Wadia 22,23 models ?
Compared to well appreciated and largely used VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A or Sanyo SF-HD65 mechanism of 581 model.
I have no personal experience with Stable Platter mechanisms but I do know that most of the iterations are not nearly as stable as one would think. My feeling is that they will sound very different from the VRDS breed.
I see. I’ll take into account your remarks regarding that.
Many thanks for your quick reply.
Hi Christiaan,
can you suggest me please a cd transport with AT&T output, that could be easily repaired also nowadays? I have looked at WT3200, WT2000, ML 37/31/31.5 and others but the spare parts are out of stock today. I found the Aqua la Diva but it’s too pricey….would you have any other idea? thank you!
Hi David, alas, nothing springs to mind. I’m afraid the format has been abandoned except on very select high-end gear. Maybe a solution would be to use a converter? I’m pretty sure it could be found on Amazon or Ali. Glass has certain benefits over copper and does indeed sound different, but it depends on the implementation. Also, whether using a converter helps your SQ versus using a full run of electrical cable (if your DAC has this connection) is something to investigate.
Hi Christiaan,
as an alternative, could you please suggest me a more recent dac that can be sound with the same bodyweight, presence of the Wadia X64.4, while being quite transparent, too? (not a “valve” sound, but quick, responsive and having body and realism at the same time)…..I really love the X64.4, but first of all I prefer having a perfect digital connection, so I prefer avoid digital converters. Thank you
CH Precision C1 or C1.2 is the closest to Wadia sound while improving it across the board, but it costs a dear penny. Rowland Aeris is pretty good, too. I think I reviewed a few others alluding to Wadia attributes, but I forget which ones. Please have a look at my DAC reviews. I have often made comparisons to Wadia, so you should be able to search for this on the page(s).
Hi
I have a Wadia CD player 302 on the workbench with a non-functional Right hand channel.
I have traced the issue to a chip U111, an ‘SC1 0021’ which has the Wadia symbol on it and so I assume it is a propriety device.
Where can I get a replacement, original or generic?
Thanks,
Robert
I don’t know. Your best shot is to obtain a service manual and check the type of component and how it sits in the schematic. With that info, you might be able to discover its core function. It may just be an opamp, muting gate, or other generic device with a Wadia logo.
I’m sure you already did a search, but I found the following thread for an 861, which might help: https://www.audiostereo.pl/topic/139709-wadia-861-uk%C5%82ad-sc1-0021-pomocy/
Thanks for that. It isn’t the DA converter. I did a little more research and the chip next to it is a Burr Brown PCM1704 DA converter.
The next chip must be the current-to-voltage converter and filter, but these should be Op Amps. The chip is a 20 pin device, a dual op amp only needs 8 pins.
I think it may be a quad OP Amp with the other Op Amps used to get the inverting output, but that still doesn’t need 20 pins. If it was 14 pin I could guess the pin assignments but 20 pins…
I did post a message to the Wadia web site but I think it unattended and I’m not sure that the company even exists any more.
There is no service manual available for that model or, if there is, I can’t find it.
Hi Robert, Indeed, there has been no development since Wadia got taken over, and it does look like the brand has effectively stopped innovating. The original designers are no longer part of the team, and I doubt the new owners are interested in providing support for what are, by now, classic designs.
Too bad there is no SM. It will be hard without. I’m no technician, so I’m afraid I also cannot be of further help.
Thanks. I’ll try to figure out the pinout of the device. Power supply should be fairly straight forward, I can see one input and two outputs…just the other 15 pins to figure out 🙁 And then substituting discrete op amps for the quad…and all surface mount…and I can’t see the underside of the double sided board…not looking good…
Yeah, it’s no fun messing with SMD, especially whey trial-and-erroring. Have you considered bringing it to a good technician/repair shop?