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<\/p>\nAfter I don’t know how many room changes, breaking down walls, re-adding them, removing others, and seemingly forever shuffling the functions of the kitchen and former hallway and bedroom areas as a result of ever-changing priorities, I think (and really hope) I have finally found the most efficient use of the available space. This is an overview of how I transformed the space into what I now call the Media Room.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The space that now functions as a work office\/Genelec audio monitoring system\/Cinema room was originally two bedrooms with a hallway in between. The area has been transformed into one continuous space by removing two walls, a radiator, and a few other obstacles. It has been used for various audio system setups, usually combining a secondary audio system with a TV setup.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.hifi-advice.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Genelec-Desk-in-Kitchen-4X3A9883_550pix.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
After working from home for an extended period and accepting a new job that would require me to work from home indefinitely, my priorities changed once again. I had already created more space in the kitchen area, which helped, but it was not enough. The location still felt cramped and enclosed.<\/p>\n
By this time, I was not only spending nearly all my spare time behind the computer, but my new job required the same for the remaining time. Ultimately, I got fed up with this work location altogether.<\/p>\n
Something had to give, so I discontinued my second audio setup and moved the desk into the now-vacant area. My goals were twofold: to have plenty of room to work in and to obtain the best possible sound from the Genelec 8341As.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.hifi-advice.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Genelec_Cinema_Setup_05-2024_4X3A3929_550pix.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
Above and below show a test setup with the desk in the former secondary audio system room. On the right is the original hallway leading to the main listening room.<\/em><\/p>\n Now that the desk had lots of free space, I could extend it to allow more room on top and below so that I could stretch my feet.<\/p>\n I put the extension to good use by making it into a cable trey, accessible via a separate flap on top.<\/p>\n Cables from the computer were routed through holes in the bottom of the trey, exiting again via slits in the rear.<\/p>\n As a result of the desk relocation, there was no more room for the secondary audio system. Also, the TV function got sidetracked as the work desk overlapped a portion of the TV screen and no longer allowed room for the sofa. For a period, I accepted this by adding a comfy swivel chair and watching TV sideways using the TV’s built-in speakers. Of course, I soon grew discontent.<\/p>\n The solution I came up with was what I did in my earlier years when I did not want to have a TV in the stereo system: to watch TV from the bed. Since I removed the walls and no longer have a separate bedroom, I did not want to always see the huge TV so prominently in the middle of the area.<\/p>\n So, I made a cabinet with a TV lift.<\/p>\n Building an MDF cabinet is simple enough, and the cost of remote-controlled elevator mechanisms has come down enormously these days to the point that everyone can afford them. Mine cost 160 euros, yet it operates as silently and smoothly as a Nakamichi cassette transport.<\/p>\n But, of course, I required a super smooth finish for the cabinet itself, particularly the edges, which I felt needed to have a large radius. I spent days sanding, puttying, and re-sanding until I was content.<\/p>\n The opening mechanism proved a little tricky to solve. The lift I purchased was meant to be used with a top, fixed to the TV like a hat, that would rise up and down with the TV. To me, that was super ugly, so I modified the mechanism to work with a pivoting flap that, of course, had to be a precise fit and align fully flush.<\/p>\n But it all worked out and, for a short while, I was super-content with the result.<\/p>\n It’s a good thing not having to see this black slab of plastic dividing the space unless it is used, right?<\/p>\n <\/p>\n But soon thereafter, the penny dropped… Since the former kitchen wall had already been removed earlier, I could simply close the hallway and extend the available space on the long wall. \u00a0Then, there would be more than enough space for the TV, and I could even move it to a central position.<\/p>\n Closing the hallway was simple enough. All it took was a few lengths of wooden lumber and two gypsum boards, followed by, admittedly, quite a few layers of plastering and a paint job to obtain a passable result.<\/p>\n With so much more wall space, the old 65-inch Samsung QLED TV suddenly did not look all that large anymore. So, when I saw an opportunity for a heavily discounted 83-inch Sony OLED TV on Black Friday combined with a substantial cashback arrangement, I grabbed the chance to fulfill a longer-standing wish: to get a massive new screen with cleanly integrated speakers and nothing else on the wall.<\/p>\n So, my whole TV-lift cabinet adventure was not really needed after all. Oh well. They say practice makes perfect. In my case, I guess fixing the TV problem with the lift cabinet has freed up space in my mind to come up with a better solution eventually.<\/p>\n After mounting the new TV, I studied using JBL in-wall speakers and had everything figured out, including a huge in-wall subwoofer. However, this plan was put on hold because I ran into several acoustical issues. When I later found that three Martin Logan Fresco speakers would perfectly align with the new TV, I figured they were flat enough, and actual built-in speakers would not add much.<\/p>\n This is when the trouble started. Closing this section of the wall caused a massive bass build-up in the new corners on both sides of the wall, which introduced several standing waves that made certain frequencies sound out of phase. Moreover, the wall itself also introduced several issues that confounded one another, making it hard to find the core culprits. For instance, I would later find that the wall had its own resonance mode that would excite and emit an out-of-phase sound to mess with all three audio systems.<\/p>\n Building the new wall took less than two days, but addressing the resulting acoustical issues in all three systems incurred a massive learning curve and would take me over half a year!<\/p>\n Above is the other side of the newly made wall, showing just the single layer of gypsum board; below is the same wall, completely filled with extra layers.<\/p>\n To combat the aforementioned resonances, I stiffened the new wall section using nine layers of gypsum boards affixed between the lumber and fixed to the back of the outer gypsum layer using Flexible Tile Glue. After each layer, I listened to the result in the Media Room and almost lost hope as I heard no difference after the first extra layer, the third, or the fourth… But sure enough, the wall’s resonance tightened up and became noticeably shorter with the fifth layer, and with it, the sound in the Cinema room improved.<\/p>\n The phase issues had diminished, but they were not gone. Next, I braced the wall using six diagonally placed lumber beams and filled the triangular cavities with Rockwool. The effect of the extra stiffening was already immediately evident after fixing the first diagonal beam in the middle. Now, the sound in the cinema had reached a point where it was still not ideal but certainly acceptable.<\/p>\n Meanwhile, the stiffening of the wall also benefitted my main audio system, although I could still hear some phasing and an uneven thickening in the bass that was not there when the hallway was still open.<\/p>\n After more experimentation and finding that the door closest to the end of the now-closed hallway also had its own resonance mode, I removed the door so that the sound pressure could “escape” into the adjacent area, which made a big difference.<\/p>\n Since the diagonal beams created a cavity I could not use anyway, I filled it with Rockwool, hoping it would cure some of the colorations heard in the main system. While it did make the bass slightly cleaner, the Rockwool also introduced a dulling of the sound, so I experimented with placing CD racks in front, and, bingo, that did the trick!<\/p>\n After covering the diagonal corner section with carpet to seal in the fibers and dust and covering the entire corner with CD racks, I also added extra support on the other end of the new wall by reinforcing the two shelves with lumber and then securely screwing them into the side walls, which added some more stiffness to the new wall. Sure enough, the bass in the main system was now nice and clean, even tighter and more solid than before.<\/p>\n With the required work still vividly in my mind from the main listening room experience, but, annoyingly, having thrown away all the custom-length pieces, I had to score a number of CD racks on the second-hand market once again. In addition, of course, I had to source around 500 extra CDs to fill these racks.<\/p>\n However, this was still not the end of it.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n There was still a particularly annoying hollow-sounding standing wave in the upper bass\/lower midrange. This did not seem to affect the sound in the main system but it was pretty unpleasant when conversing in the hallway. No matter what kind and how many panels I hung on the ceiling, I could not fix this issue.<\/p>\n As coincidence has it, this was around the time when Eelco Grimm visited to drop off the MU2 Music Server<\/a> for review. I explained the issue to him, hoping he would have some helpful advice. He looked at the 250 x 200 cm George Boonstra painting and suggested adding damping material behind it. This surprised me. Surely, I figured, a relatively thin layer of damping material behind a painting would not do much to such ferocious standing waves? Eelco countered that these waves are not merely bouncing between two adjacent walls but are “breathing” in all directions over the entire hallway and that a sufficiently large surface would still cause enough resistance to have a beneficial effect.<\/p>\n I still had two 10 cm thick 100\/120 cm Akotherm panels stocked away, so this theory was easy enough to test. And indeed, even after covering half the painting area using the two panels, the echoey sound was already massively reduced!<\/p>\n What’s more, after I had finished covering the entire area with two more panels, to my pleasant surprise, I found the bass in the main system further improved in clarity and articulation. That was a real nice bonus!<\/p>\n The beauty of the finished situation is that the treatment, in all its effort and complexity, is entirely hidden from view. I extended the CD racks to just beyond the former door post so that they appear to continue into the next room, creating an interesting, spacious effect.<\/p>\n Meanwhile, the other side of the wall was looking great! Of course, all cables are routed invisibly through the wall, and the surround amplifier is on the other side. The single cable that can still be seen is of a measurement microphone that I intend to remove after the final measurement as soon as the room is entirely finished.<\/p>\n Of course, when writing this article, the joint between the original gypsum-block wall and my newly made lumber-and-gypsum board wall is already showing cracks. I knew that would probably happen, so I used extra-flexible putty, but whenever you join two walls of different materials, it is still asking for trouble. “Fortunately”, I do not see as sharply as I once did, and I can’t see the cracks unless inspecting the wall from up close.<\/p>\n After addressing the properties of the wall itself, the main system sounded superb, and the cinema system performed pretty well, as long as I used the Audyssey room EQ system (automatic Room EQ on the Denon surround amp). However, the Genelec system still needed more attention.<\/p>\n The Genelec GLM system is fantastic (and massively quicker than Audyssey, btw) and a big help in making the best of an acoustically bad situation. However, it is not the answer for every situation. Ultimately, a digital correction system cannot do all the same things as proper physical room treatment. For instance, when there are deep dips in the bass due to cancellations, there’s nothing DSP can do to fix this.<\/p>\n This is where R.T.F.S (Raumakustik Tools Farshid Shahlawandian) acoustical treatment<\/a> comes in. Using two Big Blocks B in each front corner massively alleviated several issues, such as hollowness and boominess at specific frequencies and a portion of the phase cancellations. RTFS also offers corner pieces to fill up cavities and work around cables so that I could make a continuous column from floor to ceiling.<\/p>\n But it wasn’t enough. Ultimately, I had to position the Genelecs close to the rear wall to avoid severe cancellations in the upper bass range that even the Big Blocks could not fully address. As a result, I had to use even more bass trapping to help combat the resultant rise in frequency response. I added massive amounts of Rockwool behind and underneath the desk, which helped tame some of the excess bass. Then, I added a set of Acoustic Module Premium Tube Basstrap that looked pretty and had a subtle beneficial effect in the midrange but did very little in the bass. But at this point, the GLM system gleefully added the final touches.<\/p>\n Of course, as one might expect, such massive bass trapping also causes the room to sound dry and dark. As I expected this, I opted for the Big Block B, which has a reflective coating under the outer cloth to reduce the dulling in the treble. But more was needed, given the amount of damping that I used in such a relatively small space. This is why I added 4 T.Akustik Spektrum D20 Diffusors. These 60cm x 60cm pieces are of an entirely different order than the 50cm x 50cm Hofa variants<\/a> that I used years ago in the main system. To my delight, these rather heavy units brought some liveliness and breath back into the system and even helped linearize the bass response! I could not believe it, so I ran the GLM process two times with and without the panels, but sure enough, the measurements did not lie, and the diffusers really did reduce several dips and peaks from 100Hz and up with as much as 6dB at 600Hz!<\/p>\n My best guess is that the assembly of the diffusers’ heft, combined with their “floating” placement on a wood panel on top of three RTFS Stripes<\/a> (shown above), acts as a Mass Resonator that purely coincidentally happens to work beneficially in this setup. This was just a test setup, and I intended to fix the panels more securely later, but as they work so well, I’ll leave them as they are.<\/p>\n I used to own nine Acustica Applicata DaaDs that I purchased in a second-hand sale many years ago to combat issues in this very same room<\/a>. As I found at that time, the DaaD’s influence is subtle, and they’re more effective at controlling the reflectivity than at reducing bass excess. In any case, the single DaaD 2 that I still have was placed on the left (between the surround speaker and the Big Block), which slightly reduces the curtains’ damping effect. The room still needs a little bit more diffusing, but because I want the solution to be pretty as well as effective, this remains a work in progress for now.<\/p>\n At this point, I still had minor issues with the cinema sound, notably a flutter echo (easy to fix) and a slightly messy bass response despite using Audyssey. I added two RTFS Ceiling Vanes<\/a> directly above the desk, which helped even out the Genelec system but did very little for the cinema system. Clearly, those issues were caused elsewhere in the room.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n All this time, I had been consuming lots of information about acoustics when I stumbled on a video by Dennis Foley of Acoustic Fields. Contrary to many vendors, he stated that it is no use to address just the corners and that room issues are most effectively addressed by spreading the treatments across all surfaces. The comment section contained several heated responses from people stating that their corner treatments sure did work, and, of course, they do, but that is not the point. My takeaway from Dennis Foley’s key point is that the problems won’t ever be entirely fixed just by focusing on the prominent places, such as corners, even if they are indeed hot zones. When I thought about it, this tied in perfectly with Eelco Grimm’s earlier advice and I had to admit that the treatment in the hallway was unexpectedly hugely effective.<\/p>\n As it follows, it wasn’t until I added four more RTFS Ceiling Vanes that the last traces of acoustical issues vanished. To be fair, I had tried the Ceiling Vanes directly above the speakers in my main system a while ago but found they caused too much damping. I used them in the kitchen area instead, where they served beautifully, linearizing the Genelec setup and improving the overall ambiance.<\/p>\n It will depend on the situation, but with all the empty walls and floor surfaces in the new cinema room, I was clearly asking for trouble, and the ceiling vanes were an absolute blessing.<\/p>\n Because of my deep desire for symmetry, I planned the lighting elements and panel placement so the assembly would be perfectly centered for the Genelec and Cinema systems. I wanted the room’s two functions to be individually perfectly aligned while making the entire room look visually balanced.<\/p>\n It looks simple and intuitive now, but trust me when I say it took me quite some time to devise this solution. The breakthrough came when I decided to modify the round Philips Hue Infuse lighting element with a special bracket to fit a 3-phase rail that was neatly tucked between the panels.<\/p>\n The Ceiling Vanes are conveniently and very securely affixed using five metal sections that grip onto five magnets screwed into the ceiling.<\/p>\n Above, on the left, is an early neodymium version magnet that came with my first panels, and on the right, the current version, which uses a larger normal magnet. The strength is about the same, and the panels remain in position very securely. In fact, the magnetic grip is so firm that one has to slide the panels to the side in order to remove them.<\/p>\n These are Piega ACE 30 speakers used for the height\/Atmos channels. I selected them because I like their industrial look and because they have AMT tweeters, which should be a good match for the Martin Logan Fresco’s planar ribbon drivers. When I first connected them, I was amazed at how deep the bass reached. The specs state 50Hz, but I did not believe it until I heard them. Would you believe they actually go deeper than the much larger Frescos? Also, the Pieagas sound engagingly dynamic, robust, and impactful, and go plenty loud for my purposes. However, these are not the most linear speakers at their price point. But that’s nothing Odyssey can’t fix. Two more ACE 30 speakers for the left and right surround channels are positioned to the sides at ear height.<\/p>\n With the main system and Genelec system now sounding mighty fine, all that remained were some flutter echo and a slightly messy bass response in the cinema system.<\/p>\n No wonder, with an empty wall and large empty spaces on the adjacent floor and ceiling. I wanted to maintain a clean look as much as possible and did not want to use carpet or rugs. So, I figured my only option was to use panels on the ceiling. My first instinct was to use RTFS Carreau<\/a> since they are the same color and thickness as the Ceiling Vanes. However, after trying this, I felt it disrupted the beautiful symmetry I had worked so hard to achieve.<\/p>\n Next, I tried RTFS SiRRAHs<\/a>, which are probably overkill in these positions but are aesthetically pleasing and provide a different pattern that does not interfere with the symmetry as much. I thought it looked pretty nice in daylight, but as soon as night came and the spots were turned on, the panels’ shapes projected messy and uneven shadow patterns on the wall. Truly, it can be a burden being so hung up on aesthetics… Fortunately, the solution was simple. Instead, I mounted them on the wall, where they proved to be just as effective.<\/p>\n The SiRRAHs don’t look like they could have much effect, but their efficiency cannot be overstated. These three panels massively improved the sound of the cinema system by removing the flutter echo and cleaning up the bass response.<\/p>\n You’d almost forget it was ever there, but the right half of the screen is where the hallway used to be. With no other familiar elements on the wall, the TV looks average-sized when casually looking at it, but when watching content, the TV’s 83 inches sure are very nice! Of course, one gets used to this again in a few days, after which 65-inch TVs in other places appear relatively small. Such is life… The space actually allowed an even larger screen, which I did consider, but the next size up (~100 inches) was double the price for the same quality OLED, and the only alternative was to opt for a regular LED version, which proved to be too much of a compromise in terms of contrast and sharpness.<\/p>\n That’s all for now. I usually end these chapters with something like “until the next iteration”, but I strongly feel this setup will last a while. (Famous last words…)<\/p>\n Genelec 8341A<\/p>\n Mogami 3080 Neglex<\/a><\/p>\n Martin Logan Fresco<\/p>\n Piega ACE30<\/p>\n Denon AVC X3800H<\/p>\n Rel Quake II<\/a><\/p>\n R.T.F.S. Stripe<\/a> All HFA Reference equipment and accessories frequently used for reviews: Associated Equipment<\/a><\/p>\n Overview of all Setup Snapshots<\/a><\/p>\n In-depth overview of how the HFA systems developed over the years: HFA Audio Setup History<\/a><\/p>\n Ranking Order of reviewed components with appointed Awards:\u00a0 HFA Awards page<\/a><\/p>\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.hifi-advice.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Genelec_Cinema_Setup_05-2024_4X3A3936_550pix.jpg\")
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<\/p>\n<\/h2>\n
Main Active Monitor Loudspeakers<\/h3>\n
Digital Cables<\/h3>\n
LRC Cinema Loudspeakers<\/h3>\n
Rear\/Top Dolby Atmos Cinema Loudspeakers<\/h3>\n
Cinema Amplifier<\/h3>\n
Cinema Sub<\/h3>\n
Room Treatment<\/h3>\n
\nR.T.F.S. SiRRAH<\/a>
\nR.T.F.S. Big Block<\/a>
\nR.T.F.S. Ceiling Vane<\/a>
\nAcustica Applicata DaaD 2
\nAcoustic Module Tube Basstrap Premium
\nT.Akustik Spektrum D20 Diffusor<\/p>\nSee Also<\/h3>\n
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